A day with the dead

Cemeteries fascinate me.  Some might argue that to enjoy exploring these sites is a little morbid but they can be such interesting and very often beautiful places.  I have explored cemeteries the world over from Paris’ Pere Lachaise to war cemeteries in the Somme, the old Jewish Cemetery in Prague, to the catacombs in Rome and burial mounds throughout the UK.  So it was only fitting that my first stop in Buenos Aires should be to the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta. 

This cemetery, and its neighboring Chapel and Convent, was built in 1732 by the monks of the Order of the Recoletos.  The 14 acre site in the middle of the city contains over 4500 family vaults and inside those you can often see dozens of coffins.  The dead are essentially stacked on top of each other on shelves with the most recent being on top.  Many of the vaults have stairs leading below ground and rumour has it that there is up to 5 levels below ground.  The layout and the scale of the mausoleums make the cemetery feel like a miniature city.  

Some of the mausoleums are amazing and the sculptures throughout the narrow passages and avenues are magnificent pieces of art in their own right. 

The most famous resident (for most people) and probably the number one draw card for visitors is, Evita Peron.  However, this very beautiful and peaceful cemetery it is now home to numerous presidents, generals, famous scientists and artists.

It’s a beautiful site surrounded by restaurants and artisan markets and while enjoying a glass of wine overlooking the cemetery may seem a little out of kilter, I have no doubt that for many of its residents, the company and the visit is always appreciated!