Food, wine and life!

Two wonderful days in Argentina experiencing the great food and culture!  I like to think I am somewhat of a foodie – I love cooking, eating and celebrating life through the senses!  So I spent Friday at cooking school with a fun group of people from all over the world, learning how to make empanadas, mate’, and a decadent caramel and chocolate sweet.  And of course, drinking some wonderful Malbec wines from Mendoza to finish it off.  It was a fabulous experience and one that I am glad I didn’t miss.  I’d had rather a big night the evening before, being wined and dined by some friends and professional colleagues, and I certainly didn’t deny myself the excellent food and wine offerings there.  But of course, everything has a price and I admit the head wasn’t mine the next day.  So I almost begged off going to school.  But ever the determined one who hates to fail….I tackled the subway with my pathetic Spanish and dragged myself into school for the day….and for my efforts, thoroughly enjoyed myself.  Of course, the body then had to be thrashed a little in the gym as I am convinced I am trailing some additional sizes than I started with!

Then Sunday was spent out on the ranch, or estancia as they are called here.   The estancia I visited is called the Estancia Santa Susana and is located in an area called Los Cardales in the country outside Buenos Aires.  The ranch was established in the early 1800s by an Irishman and he named the property ‘Susana’ after his wife.  The property is around 3000 acres today but was once much bigger.  Unfortunately, as is the case in many countries, agriculture is not managing to pay the bills so between selling off land and transforming the business into a tourism venture, the family are able to maintain their links to the land and share with others their passion for Argentina.  A wee bit of horse riding, learning the tango and molongo, and of course, more food and Argentine wine were the order of the day.  This time though, a variety of BBQ’d and smoked meats cooked over this long pit of hot coals was on offer.  There is an amazing amount of meat eaten in this country and they eat everything and I mean everything.  Apparently about 60kgs a year per person!!  I am stunned that they aren’t all dying of heart disease!  But the upshot of all that meat….some wonderful leather products!

Anyway, in my travels I have met some really interesting people nonetheleast of which is a gentleman who teaches literature and philosophy at the University of Buenos Aires.  He has coined the phrase here “gastrosophy” which challenges the more European “gastronomy”.   “Gastro” of course means of the stomach, and “onomy” means law whereas “Sophia” means something like of the heart and soul.  So his philosophy is that food should be experienced according to the heart and soul and not according to some ‘law of the stomach’.  I like his thinking!!!!

BA Street Art

Along with a fascination for cemeteries, I confess that I am also really interested in street art and graffiti.  So on Thursday I joined two Venezuelans on a Buenos Aires Street Art Walking Tour.   It was fantastic and the street art scene here in BA is thriving with some very talented artists doing large scale work.  Of course there is a lot of tagging which is just rubbish (and illegal) but I was really impressed with the wall murals and public art that can be found just about anywhere.  I also thoroughly enjoyed not only the company and conversation but also walking through some of the outer suburbs or barrios as they are called, as I wouldn’t ordinarily have wandered through those suburbs alone.  This is a fascinating city of contrasts between upscale luxury and real poverty but one thing is certain; it’s a city of high energy and passion which can be found in everything from the way people engage with each other and their hand gestures, to the street art.

Puerto Madero

I had always thought that Buenos Aires was on the ocean.  Instead, I have discovered (by simply examining the map!) that it flanks the Rio de la Plata, a massive river that is 200km wide at its mouth.  Nestled down in this mouth is the Puerto Madero, the port of Buenos Aires.  A significant and strategic location, this port was originally the key to the establishment of the city and allowed BA to flourish, particularly during the 20^th century when it was a busy port exporting various Argentinian produce throughout the world. 

The port was also the first landfall for immigrants arriving in BA and while originally a Spanish settlement, the 20^th century saw the Italian population boom.

Sadly as is the case with many of these old ports, its narrow wharves and locks proved inadequate for modern shipping so a new port has been established just north of the city centre resulting in the decay and dilapidation of the beautiful old port buildings.  Fortunately, some visionaries were given the green light in the late 90s to rejuvenate the area, paving the way for a new way of looking at the wonderful old port buildings and warehouses.

Today, it is seeing a new life as a waterfront entertainment and residential neighborhood.  Quite ritzy really with some fabulous restaurants and I just love how what was becoming an eyesore is now a great spot for recreation and families.  A stroll (or promenade as its called here) along the wharves is wonderful and its amazing to see all the joggers, people walking their dogs, kids playing soccer and people just enjoying a coffee or wine.  A real compliment to the City of Buenos Aires and recycling at is best.

A day with the dead

Cemeteries fascinate me.  Some might argue that to enjoy exploring these sites is a little morbid but they can be such interesting and very often beautiful places.  I have explored cemeteries the world over from Paris’ Pere Lachaise to war cemeteries in the Somme, the old Jewish Cemetery in Prague, to the catacombs in Rome and burial mounds throughout the UK.  So it was only fitting that my first stop in Buenos Aires should be to the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta. 

This cemetery, and its neighboring Chapel and Convent, was built in 1732 by the monks of the Order of the Recoletos.  The 14 acre site in the middle of the city contains over 4500 family vaults and inside those you can often see dozens of coffins.  The dead are essentially stacked on top of each other on shelves with the most recent being on top.  Many of the vaults have stairs leading below ground and rumour has it that there is up to 5 levels below ground.  The layout and the scale of the mausoleums make the cemetery feel like a miniature city.  

Some of the mausoleums are amazing and the sculptures throughout the narrow passages and avenues are magnificent pieces of art in their own right. 

The most famous resident (for most people) and probably the number one draw card for visitors is, Evita Peron.  However, this very beautiful and peaceful cemetery it is now home to numerous presidents, generals, famous scientists and artists.

It’s a beautiful site surrounded by restaurants and artisan markets and while enjoying a glass of wine overlooking the cemetery may seem a little out of kilter, I have no doubt that for many of its residents, the company and the visit is always appreciated!

Cowboys and Culture in Dallas-Fort Worth

View from the Book Depository

Dallas-Fort Worth, or the “Metroplex”, is primarily comprised of two very interesting yet completely different large cities separated by about 50kms of suburbs and smaller cities that now bridge the two.  Dallas is clearly the commercial and financial hub whereas Fort Worth exudes history.  While Dallas has its fair share of history, my sense was that its history is more closely linked to the contemporary world.  It’s a thriving place with modern architecture and interesting public art.  I didn’t get to explore much, as jet lag was pursuing me rather aggressively, but I did have the opportunity to do the absolute must…..take a walk on the grassy knoll!  I also took the time to visit the 6^th Floor Book Depository Museum which was incredibly interesting and a real compliment to the city of Dallas in the way it presents the life, death and legacy of President John F Kennedy.  Dallas is renowned for its museums and art galleries so I will make the effort to return and explore those.  But my brief first visit was rewarding and certainly provided a taste of what Dallas has to offer.

Fort Worth has wonderful old buildings and its downtown feels a little more culturally sophisticated but that might be a bit rough and unfair on old Dallas.  FW has its roots in the Chisholm Trail having been a stop on the long cattle herding trails of the ‘wild west’.  In fact, FW is today known as the home of the cowboy and it certainly does have that feel about it.  I was a little underdressed without my cowboy boots!  The marketing slogan at present for the city is “cowboys and culture” and that aptly describes FW. I really enjoyed this city, its ‘honky tonks’, the cowboy feel, and the relaxed laid back friendly welcome.  

I definitely will make this a ‘weekend away’ stop again.